One method sometimes employed to turn surface water away from cellar walls is to lay a concrete pavement, walk, or gutter, 2 or 3 feet in width, around the house with a gradual slope away from the walls.

Where the sidewalk joins the wall, the wall surface should be roughened, cleaned, and moistened and the concrete rounded up to meet the face of the wall. This method will make a good bond and turn water away from the joint.

The gutter type of construction is used to conduct surface water along the wall and lead it to some low spot. The gutter should be at least 2 feet wide over all, with an outer lip, or edge, about 5 inches in width.

The depression should be about 4 inches deep at the outer edge and sloped gradually up to meet the wall, and the joint should be treated in the same manner as above recommended for the sidewalk.

In low damp locations, or in other places where there is a large amount of water in the subsoil, it is advisable to install drain tile around the footings to lower the water table, or water level, and to carry the water away before it can penetrate into the cellar. Where conditions are unusually bad, waterproofing may be necessary in addition to the drain.

Generally this is going to be underneath something like a swim spa or hot tub, if you have one. Sometimes under bathtubs as well, if you have a leak or a habit of splashing about while taking a bath.

To lay the tile, dig a trench adjoining, to a depth of a few inches below the level of the bottom of the cellar floor but not below the footing level. The tile should be at least 4 inches in diameter (although 3-inch tile has proved satisfactory in some cases) and should be laid so that the grade or fall will be smooth and as sharp as possible to avoid settlement of mud within the pipe.

Kitchen faucets, bathroom fixtures, and counter tops should all have sufficient tiling as well, to prevent water from getting into the innards of your home and rotting them.

The tile should also be connected to an outlet similar to those recommended for down spouts. The cracks between the joints should be covered with pieces of tin or strips of roofing paper, to prevent sediment running into the pipe.

The pipe should be carefully laid and protected against settlement or breakage under strain, but surrounding it with fine screened gravel or broken stone, tamped firmly around it. Following this, coarser material up to 1 inch in size should be covered over the pipe to a depth of 1 or 2 feet.

Before back filling to grade with earth, it is well to spread burlap or bagging or to place sods, grass side down, on top of the stone to prevent fine material falling or washing down into the stone.

Steam rooms are much the same, but the sauna is a bit simpler, especially the dry sauna, because they are located outside and any damage done by moisture will not directly affect the home.

There are many variables when deciding the best house siding for your home. With many siding choices, it really depends on you the homeowner to decide what siding best fits your house. Hardie siding can be used for may projects because it comes in so many shapes and textures. Many people choose that type of siding for that very reason.

Exterior Cement siding such as hardie board will last for years to come. With easy maintanice hardie board and hardie plank siding is being chosen for many homes. Cement siding is also popular due to its ability to withstand the elements such as wind, fire, hail, and rain for many many years. Hardie siding is impervious to water, which makes it the ultimate siding. It already comes pre-primed and ready to paint. Some cement sidings come pre colored as well which eleminates even needing to paint when it installed.

This type of siding comes in a variety of sizes and styles. It is available with the appearance of brick, wood, and even vinyl siding. It is priced comparable to wood siding, but because it is strong enough to withstand the elements it will outlast the wood siding.

For the price that you are going to pay for this investment, you will want to choose a house siding that will last as long or longer then you are going to own the home. Cost for your siding also includes the price of quality nails/screws, caulking, paint, trim pieces, moisture barriers, and the obvious how much square footage you are going to be charged for the instalation unless you will be installing yourself. Cement siding is so easy to install you may decide to do the work yourself rather then contracting the work out to a company.

Cement board such as hardie board has many uses not only exterior siding. The boards can be used in the interior of your home as well. Many contractors use this fiber cement board for bathrooms including walls and even as a sub floor over your existing foundation. In the bathroom this fiber cement board allows tile to adhere to the walls.

Cement siding such as Hardie board siding is just one of the many ways you can cover the exterior of your home. Alternatives are brick, stone, stucco, and even real logs to create a log cabin look. Take your time and do research to find the siding best fits your family and home. After much research most people conclude that hardie siding is the best house siding for your money.

If you have owned your log home any length of time, then you have probably already had to deal with maintenance issues. If you are considering buying a log home, understanding maintenance requirements and procedures can not only help in the buying process, but also help in understanding what is involved in the periodic upkeep of the home.

Some log home owners after enjoying the initial excitement of the rustic beauty, the smell of the logs and the “log home living” atmosphere are disappointed to find that with all the beauty, comes all the maintenance. However, if they understand proper maintenance procedure and protocol and maintain a practical maintenance program, they can efficiently manage the upkeep of their home without becoming overwhelmed by what may seem like a daunting task.

This all hinges on proper maintenance. Proper maintenance does not mean washing the home with bleach, letting it dry, and applying a do-it-yourself retail stain, or the all too familiar “water-proofing” sealer. This approach will certainly produce disappointing results. Your log home is a large investment. Spending the time and the money to maintain it is also an investment. Most people would not go to a “big box” store and buy a can of spray paint to re-paint their car. Yet all too often, the “off the shelf” retail stains are bought and used to re-stain their log homes. This is one instance in which “you get what you pay for!”

Assuming that your log home was prepared properly to receive a quality sealer, and the sealer was applied correctly, you should expect 3 to 6 years of protection. You can expect less than 3 years if a clear or lighter stain is used. A good rule of thumb is that the darker the stain, the more pigment and therefore the more protection. Lighter shades (the natural look) have the least amount of pigment and the least amount of protection.

So, it comes down to a trade off. Most people like the natural look of the logs. To achieve this, either a clear or a “honey” color will have to be used leaving the least protection on the logs. Using a darker color such as a “mahogany” or “walnut,” you have the most protection thereby lasting the longest, but most people don’t like the darker shades. Now, the log home owner will have to decide which is more important; using a lighter shade to keep the natural look and sealing more often, or using a darker stain with more protection, but loosing the natural log look.

Log home restoration and maintenance is just a part of the log home experience. Understanding maintenance procedures and implementing a maintenance program can alleviate potential underlying problems such as wood rot, mildew problems, failing caulk and chinking as well as making sure your log home keeps that beautiful rustic look and feel for many years. The bottom line; Do it right the first time, have a good maintenance plan and have a knowledgeable and trustworthy contractor you can depend on.

Before placing an order for a closet, here are some things that you need to consider.

* Size

The size of the closet depends on the size of the space in which the furniture will be placed. After considering the amount of space, also think about the amount of items that you will be placing inside the closet.

It is suggested that you place similar items in one closet than having several closets than contain the same items. This will provide ease in organizing the contents and in looking for things stored in the closet.

* Materials

While most closets are made of wood, the most important thing that you need to consider is the sturdiness of the materials used. Closets are almost permanent fixtures in the house. These cannot be easily replaced without going to a lot of trouble with the construction.

So make sure that the materials used can stand thru time until you decide to have the house renovated. Make sure that the wood has been pretreated to prevent mold and insect growth.

Also, make sure that the materials are suitable for what you intend to store in the closet. Some closets may not be good for storing food, so ask first before buying a closet or ordering one.

You can also purchase a closet in three ways. You can buy stock closets, which are ready-made that you can take it home on the same day. This is cheaper, however this provides you with little options.

You can order semi-custom closets. This would mean that the maker can give you samples of designs, parts and accessories, and you can select your own combinations.

Custom closets are the most expensive. If you choose a custom closet, you can specify the size and shape (for irregularly-shaped spaces) and design of your closet that you would like to order.

Also consider the drawer slides. These are rated according to load capacity as light, medium or heavy. It is better to choose slides that have full extension capability so can access the full depth of the drawers.

* Contents

Consider the amount of contents that will be stored in the closet. It will be better that you have a single closet for similar items for ease of storage and finding what you need.

Also, think about what type of items will be stored. Will you need additional drawers, attachments and racks for your closet? Make sure that you inform or ask the maker about this so he can give you suggestions and more information.

* Design

If you will be placing an order for a customized closet, you can choose exactly what you would like it to look like. Here are some considerations.

Finish – Apart from considering the latest trend, ask what will look good with your home. For a traditional style, brushed finishes, polished

nickel, pewter or brass will look great in your home’s interiors. For contemporary style, enameled and gloss-metal shine will match your home’s style.

Knobs and pulls – Knobs and pulls are mounted on drawers and doors to facilitate opening. Knobs are attached with a single bolt and screw and require less space than pulls, which are attached by two screws. Both can be combined with a backplate or can be used alone.

These are available in a variety of designs, colors and finish including sterling, antique or polished brass, aged bronze, iron, nickel, polished chrome, ceramics and antique copper.

Backplates – Backplates are placed on the knob or pull and the drawer or door surface. These are used to cover existing holes on the surface (usually when changing knobs or pulls), to protect the surface (during construction or when the knob is pulled) and to improve the design of the hardware.

* Budget

Ready-made closet are always the cheapest but make sure that these will fit your allotted space in your room. If you will be able to stretch your budget, it is still best to get a semi-custom or customized closet so you can specify the size and the design.

You can always check online for different offers on stock, semi-custom and custom closets. Surely, you can get one that will match your storage and decorating needs.

For more great closet information and resources check out:

http://www.justclosets.info

The intercom is now becoming a popular component not only of workplaces but also of every household. Keep in mind that the right knowledge and proper caution is important, and the guidelines below will help you in finding the perfect intercom that best suits your needs.

1. Set your budget. The first important thing to do before shopping for an intercom system is to set your budget limit. The type, make, brand, and features of an intercom system will largely depend on the amount that you are willing to spend on it.

2. Know the basics. Different brands may have different systems, but their basic components are essentially the same. In general, an intercom has the following basic parts:

*The master station – also known as the central control panel, this is the unit that controls the system.

*The sub-stations/door stations – also known as the speakers or slave units, these are connected to the control panel.

*The power supply – this feeds power to all the units in order to make them function.

3. Determine the range that you want. Different intercom systems have varying ranges, with some even reaching almost 1,000 feet (or 304.8 meters).

Choosing the range of your intercom system depends on their use and purpose, which can vary from room to room, floor to floor, and even as far as from one building to another.

In general, intercoms are usually used for the following purposes:

*To connect different rooms.

*To connect rooms to a central office.

*To broadcast announcements/as a public address system.

*To function as a ‘bell’, especially at schools (to signal the change of classes) and at home (connected to a door buzzer).

4. Check its compatibility with your home (or building) structure. The ability of the intercom system to deliver a good sound quality depends on the structure of your home (or building). Obstacles, such as metal walls, may interfere with the signals and prevent your intercom system from producing a clear sound.

5. Choose the desired type of intercom system. Intercom systems can either be hard-wired or wireless.

*Hard-wired or traditional intercom systems – these require wires to connect the entire system that is installed throughout your home (or building). Although they provide minimum interference and/or restrictions, hard-wired intercoms can be expensive to install (even far more expensive than the actual cost of the units themselves). They can also prove to be less convenient, with all the wires running throughout the walls and ceilings.

*Wireless intercom systems – these units may be more costly than the traditional, hard-wired ones, but they have the advantage of requiring simple installation: just plug them to a power source, and you’re all set!

6. Determine the power supply to be used. Intercom systems can perform with either of the following power sources:

*An AC power outlet (or a 12 volts DC power supply)

*Batteries (needs regular replacement)

7. Check the product’s warranty. In a way, the length of an intercom’s warranty, including the extent of its coverage, reflects the manufacturer’s confidence in their particular product. Make sure that you understand the clauses and provisions that are stated in the warranty certificate, and that they are backed not only by the manufacturer but the local dealer (or dealers) as well.

8. Transact business with experienced dealers that are known for their reputation. They will not only provide you with several possible options but also actually help you in choosing the best intercom that would give the best value for your money. It is also strongly recommended that you deal with certified and accredited dealers and manufacturers that have been in business for a considerable length of time, who not only offer clear warranty considerations but also extensive after-sales support.

By following the guidelines that are mentioned above, shopping for a perfect intercom will surely be an easy task for you – allowing you to enjoy the many benefits of a good intercom system minus the worries and frustrations. Happy hunting!

For more great intercom information and resources check out:

http://www.intercomhq.info

Here are six steps in choosing the right faucet for you:

1. Two-handle designs, generally goes for as low as $50, allows you to regulate the temperature more accurately. Having independent control for the hot and cold water makes adjusting the temperature easier.

The single handle faucets also known as post-mount, generally goes for $75 to $200, operate from side-mounted lever or a top-mounted knob. Most single-handle faucets have pullout spouts.

The cross-shaped design and large wing levers are the more popular designs. However, most faucets have different handles that can be attached to a faucet body for a customized look.

2. If the style of the faucet is important, begin your choosing with the type of finish. The most affordable finish for a faucet is a chrome finish. Usually priced around $60. The chrome-finish has a long warranty on scratches.

The more colorful enamel coatings generally will cost you from $20 to $200 more, and are more susceptible to scratches and chipping. Add 25 to 40 percent more to the price of coated faucets for stainless steel faucets.

3. A PVD (physical vapor deposition) finish is better than usual plated finishes but add $150 to $750 more in costs. The PVD finish is done by vaporizing the metal and glazing it with a scratch-resistant and non-tarnishing film.

Look at brushed chrome, oil-rubbed bronze and satin nickel for a rustic appeal. The brushed finish and satin finish cleverly hides scratches.

4. There are more to spouts aside from the standard straight faucets. There are high-arching goose-like spouts, great for filling pots. A pull-out faucet can get you anywhere in a sink with three-bowls. You can go from a spray mode to a stream mode with a touch. There are also restaurant-type models for those extra long hoses.

5. Know that there are four kinds of faucets.

a. The compression valve:

The compression valve uses rubber washers. The compression valve type of faucet will eventually leak but they are typically easy to repair.

b. The ball valves:

The ball valve controls the flow and temperature of the water by using a steel ball. The ball valves are washerless and easy to maintain because of this. Replacing a ball valve is readily affordable and easy to do.

c. The ceramic disk

The ceramic disk is virtually a maintenance free water faucet. It is guaranteed not to wear out but is obviously much more expensive than the ball valve or compression valve.

d. The cartridge faucet

Much like the ceramic disk, the cartridge faucet usually does not need any maintenance. Just like the ceramic disk, it has a hefty price tag.

Regardless of the type of faucet you choose. Always check the warranty and the finish.

6. You may opt for filtering faucets, costing $200 plus, to bring in purified water. Several filters are placed under the sink while others are fitted inside the spout. To set the maximum water temperature, an anti-scald faucet can be used. An electronic faucet with an infrared sensor is also available. They save on water and allow for cleaner handles.

In general, you don’t need to hand over your hard earned money to pay for good quality. Most faucets have the same basic parts and sometimes even the same finish across several price lines.

To have a streamlined, urban look, choose a faucet that is mounted on the wall, this is often used with vanity bowls.

Be sure that your faucet connection matches your sink holes. If they don’t match, you’ll have to provide more drill holes or cover the unused holes using an escutcheon plate.

All faucets in general carry at least one year warranties. Even the low-end models carry at least one year of warranty. Many faucets carry a warranty by the manufacturer that is more than one year.

Good luck choosing the perfect faucet for you.

For more great faucet information and resources check out:

http://www.elegantfaucets.info

We all know how frustrating it can be to try and move large equipment without the right tools. That’s why the hand truck is the best option for moving office furniture to household appliances. It is one of the most basic tools for moving large equipment quickly and efficiently.

Capacity
Do you want to move your refrigerator without straining your back and legs? Grab the hand truck. It has the capacity to hold up to 600 pounds meaning it will help you load and unload washer, dryers, refrigerators, file cabinets and any other item you have been meaning to move but have not had the right tool for the job. This will help you quickly replace and move old appliances you have been waiting to rid yourself of.

Durability
The hand truck is made out of 100% metal. This means it will last through the toughest weather conditions without rusting or corroding and won’t give way to the pressure of the equipment that you will be moving. The aluminum also provides you with a light weight, easy-to-maneuver tool that will allow you to get into and out of the tightest areas. The metal will give you a long lasting, reliable solution to all your heavy equipment moving needs for years to come.

Traction and Stability
Do you remember the time your refrigerator or washer fell off of your hand truck because the tires slipped on the surface? That won’t happen again with the large 10” tires that provide you with the traction and stability you need to move the heaviest office and home equipment around. With the knobby all terrain tread, you will not have to worry about the hand cart sliding from not being able to grip the surface. These large tires also provide the stability needed to move equipment quickly and rapidly.

Features
Do you have extra room to store a bulky hand truck? Probably not. For that reason, the hand cart was made specifically with you and your garage or warehouse in mind. It measures 53” high and 20” wide. The compact, yet durable truck will not take up much space at all enabling you to use the extra space for whatever you feel like. The plate is 18” x 9” and gives you the length needed to move your equipment around without any hassles or problems. Last of all, in the down position, it has a 40” cargo bed that will make moving any item that much easier for you.

Big, small, heavy, light, and in-between; the hand truck has all the necessities to make your moving life easier. Whether to move home, office, or warehouse goods, the hand cart is your easy solution to getting the job done fast, effectively, and without hassle.

Jordan Bartlett specializes in content writing for Tool America.

For more information on hand trucks please visit their website.

When refinishing any wood floor it is best if you
hire someone that is in the business to do it. I know
this because I have done them myself and found it to
be very stressful. Finding a rental center that has
both the rough sander and the finishing edge sander, then picking it up and returning it on time is bad enough without even mentioning using them without destroying the floors!

Now I’ll tell you, I am very fussy when it comes to the finished product so I take extra care not to make any “bumps” in the floor as the sander direction is changed from forward
to reverse. This occurs if you pause too long before
moving the sander in a new direction or you are
pulling up or pushing down too hard on the handle to
steer the sander. I still get the bumps so I’m never
really satisfied with the outcome when the job is
done.

Using the edger is yet another challenge! The thing
about the edger is it doesn’t get to the very edge of
the wall so you have to use a sharp chisel or putty
knife to finish. I tried taking the baseboard trim off
but you still have to finish by hand because the trim
will be sitting higher if you don’t remove the “edge”
that is the height of the floor before sanding. Also,
if you have baseboard heat, you will have to finish by
hand along them as well.

Okay, you’ve sanded the floors yourself because a: you
thought you could save money and b: you started but
realized that the job was too much for you, then
discovered that no contractor wanted to come and
complete your job! or c: your wife said you wold never
be able to do it! Now comes the part where you decide
what finish to apply on your “new” floors. Should you
stain them or just put a coat of clear finish on them?
This is a matter of personal preference but I like a
light or natural look to the floors because I think
this brings out the beauty in the wood. The hard part
about the finish coat is keeping the dust off as it
dries and also being able to sleep in the house with
all the fumes in the air as it dries!

Choosing the right contractor to do the job could
prove to be difficult but here are a few simple rules
to follow. Always ask to see a floor that they have
done or at least some references. Check to make sure
they have insurance in case something goes wrong and
how long have they been in business. Sometimes
checking with a local lumber yard or paint store will
yield a name of someone reliable or you can do what
most people do: Find a name from the classifieds or
on-line and make some calls and go with your “gut”
feeling! I would be hesitant if the ad said something
like “Jack of all trades” instead of “Floor
re-finishing” Good Luck!

Lee Dobbins writes about decorating and remodeling. Visit her at A Kitchen Decorating Idea for tips on kitchen floors and more.