I’ve always been an environmentally conscious individual and as such have always made some attempt to keep my household eco-friendly. I’ve used compost heaps and recycled my plastics, papers and aluminums, but it wasn’t until recently that I decided to make an effort to try and save water.

I wasn’t quite sure what method I wanted to try in order to cut my teeth on water conservation so I did some research online first. I found low-flow showerheads, HET toilets, tips on how to check various taps and toilets for leaks, and even suggestions on various heavy items to place in my toilet tank, so as to displace water and use less per flush. The showerheads looked appealing at first, but then I stumbled onto something called a dual flush toilet. These dual flush systems, where one lever flushes a full tank and one lever flushes half a tank, caught my imagination. They’re unique, and in my opinion add a certain amount of style to your bathroom.

At first I thought I would have to replace my entire toilet. I consider myself fairly handy but I’m no plumber. I also had no intention of paying someone to tear my bathroom apart. That was when I stumbled across something called a dual flush toilet retrofit kit. These kits are quite cheap and I really had no problem installing one. I’ll leave it up to you to find a kit you want to install, but the following are the steps I took to install my own dual flush kit, and if you would like to try it yourself, they will hopefully be quite easy to follow.

1. Turn off the water supply to the toilet and drain tank. Use a sponge to remove the excess remaining water from the tank.

2. Disconnect the tank’s inlet fitting from the water supply. Unscrew the two bolts that hold the tank down to the toilet.

3. Disconnect the flush handle from the tank. Lay the tank down on a towel and, using a channel-locking plier, unscrew the large flush valve holding nut.

4. Install the dual flush toilet kit valve – the tapered rubber gasket goes on the inside of the tank to prevent leakage. Tighten large nut until secure.

5. Install the two rubber gasket tie-down bolts and their lock nuts to the bottom of the tank. Bolt the tank down to the toilet using the second set of rubber gaskets and nuts. At this stage I recommend using completely new tank tie down bolts. They are inexpensive to purchase at any hardware store.

6. Assemble the new arms as per required length between the handles and the new flush valve. You may cut them with a hacksaw if necessary here.

7a) Insert the small and large handles into the handle-hole in the tank. Insert spacer if needed.

b) Hook long arm into overflow tube, and short arm into release pole.

c) Slide short and long arms into place on the handles and use clip to secure.

d) Connect the refill tube from the fill valve to the nipple on the long arm.

8. Open water supply to the tank. Fill slowly while checking for leaks. You may want to label the large and small handles as “full” and “half”, but that is personal preference.

The way my dual flush kit works I flush my full six-liter tank with the large handle, and the small handle gives me a four-liter flush. I don’t have any problem with the four-liter flush performance and I’m quite satisfied with the way everything turned out. You can imagine that people usually have something to say when they emerge from my bathroom, which always gives me a chuckle.

Hard water problems can have a big impact in and around the home. Here are some of the problems it can cause in different areas of the house.

Bathroom

Showerheads and spray-nozzles can become blocked; they can even clog the small holes completely and reduce their efficiency. The bathtub and sink seem to be the places where there is a visible soap scum build up. Without proper treatment his build up is very difficult to remove and may require a lot of cleaners and many applications. Scale can clog pipes and can decrease the life of toilet flushing units.

Bathing

Bathing with soap in hard water leaves a film of sticky soap curd on the skin. The film may prevent removal of soil and bacteria. Soap curd interferes with the return of skin to its normal, slightly acid condition, and may lead to irritation. Soap curd on hair may make it dull, lifeless and difficult to manage. Similarly, the insoluble salts that get left behind from using regular shampoo in hard water tend to leave hair rougher and harder to detangle.

Laundering

Clothes washed in hard water often look dingy and feel harsh and scratchy. The hardness minerals combine with some soils to form insoluble salts, making them difficult to remove. Soil on clothes can introduce even more hardness minerals into the wash water. Continuous laundering in hard water can damage fibers and shorten the life of clothes by up to 40 percent.

Dishwashers

When washing dishes, especially in a dishwasher, hard water may cause spotting and filming on your crockery. The minerals from hard water are released faster when it comes into contact with heat, causing an increase in the amount of spotting and filming that occurs. This problem is not a health risk, but it can be a nuisance to clean and reduce the quality of your crockery.

Problems in Water Boiler Systems and Pipework

Hard water also contributes to inefficient and costly operation of water-using appliances. Heated hard water forms a scale of calcium and magnesium minerals (limescale deposits) that can contribute to the inefficient operation or failure of water-using appliances. Pipes can become clogged with scale that reduces water flow and ultimately requires pipe replacement. Limescale has been known to increase energy bills by up to 25%

Limescale in Solar Heating Systems

Solar heating, often used for heating swimming pools is prone to limescale buildup, which can reduce the efficiency of the electronic pump and therefore the overall systems performance will deteriorate. There are low cost solutions to this problem which prevents limescale build up and over time will remove existing deposits completely.

In Industry

Hard water contributes to scaling in boilers, cooling towers and other industrial equipment. In these industrial settings, water hardness must be constantly monitored to avoid costly breakdowns. Hardness is controlled by addition of chemicals and by large-scale softening with zeolite resins and ion exchange resins.

Painting a ceiling can fill you with dread. It’s not one of the easiest jobs when painting your home. People often complain of being covered in drips of paint, having a sore arm from holding the brush and having to balance on top of a ladder. The lighting can be different too. Also, not all ceilings are flat – many have a textured coating. So what are the best techniques when painting a ceiling?

Paint Selection – The right sort of a paint is essential as there are so many to choose from. The broadest categories of paint are oil and latex. Then there is the type of finish – high gloss and matt are the two main types.

But choosing paint for your ceiling can be more complex than that. Some paints are especially for particular types of ceilings such as texture coated and acoustic tile. Acoustic tiles will normally be found in “home cinema” rooms.

Textured/Popcorn Ceilings – If you have a textured ceiling the only way of painting it will be to use a sprayer. The professionals make sprayers look easy but for a novice it can actually be quite difficult. You will need good ventilation and the correct consistency of paint. If the paint is at the wrong consistency then the sprayer will either clog up or spay out a watery paint.

Do You Need Primer? If you are painting on a new surface then a primer is essential otherwise you would need a lot more top coats. The primer can help hide discolorations that can show through regular paint. Using a primer will also help give a good surface so that the layers of paint adhere; reducing drips.

How to Reduce Dripping Paint – If your paint is too thin there is the risk that it’ll splatter. Test a bit out on a vertical surface to see if the paint runs. If it does then it will more than likely drip when applied to the ceiling.

Move your roller back and forth at a steady speed. If you go too fast this will increase the chance of splattering. For tall ceilings a roller with an extension pole will make your work much easier and prevent neck strain. Also, don’t put too much paint on the roller.

If you have the pole extended out at a slight angle you will find this more comfortable and you’ll be able to avoid paint splattering all over you. Just ensure you don’t have the pole extended too far out as it will feel a lot heavier to use.

For most of us, painting a ceiling shouldn’t be too painful as using a roller is very easy and quick to use.

The biggest thing about painting exterior surfaces which puts most people off is the amount of preparation involved. It’s very true when people say that 80% of the work is preparation.

Despite all the power tools available to buy nowadays most of the work involved in preparing to paint simply involves elbow grease. This prep work will involve aching scraping, sanding and wiping. Not what you’d call fun.

This hard work is a must if you want a paint job which is smooth and will last well. It’s also much easier to paint on a good surface. The amount of effort you’ll put into preparing to paint will depend on the condition on the surface you’ll be painting on.

Amount of Work Required – Paint which is peeling will require more work. Scraping the old paint off and sanding down the wood is essential. Areas of mildew will need to be removed and the wood treated before painting. Normally aluminium siding will just need a wash and maybe some sanding.

1. Inspect the surface - Use a 6-8 inch scraper for areas of peeling paint. You don’t have to remove every little bit of paint, just areas which you think will continue peeling. When scraping paint in corners then use a small scraper instead.
2. Washing - If the surface area is dirty give it a decent wash before you even think about sanding it. Although you could use a power washer it could be a little too powerful and may damage your wood. You could use TSP (trisodium phosphate) and a regular garden hose. If you are having difficulty reaching the surface, try a car washing accessory which has an extendable arm.
3. Allow to Dry - Avoid sanding wet wood because the fibers can become damaged. Also don’t sand wet aluminium because this will shorten the lifespan of your sand paper. Expect to wait a day or two for the surface to dry depending on the weather.
4. Sanding - If you have left small bits of paint make sure you smooth them down with your sandpaper. If the wood was affected by mildew and/or has putty in it, give these areas a sand.
5. Wash Again – Because sanding creates a lot of dust, you’ll want to wash the area again so that the paint can be absorbed properly. If you don’t paint onto a clean surface the pain will peel and flake before it should.

Now all you need to do it get the rest of the job done is to paint.

Colors are probably the most powerful design factor in garden design. And plants are generally the easiest and most dominant element where color and contrast can be achieved and manipulated.

However, for many gardeners and landscapers in their quest for the perfect color combinations, there is another side to plants that is often overlooked. And that would be the contrast of the many wonderful and varied textures of plants. Specifically and for the sake of this article, green plants. And yes, green is a color.

Green plants not only serve as a color element just as any other color, but can also be used as a neutral transitional color that ties other elements and colors together. Or in other words, as a filler or where one area of the garden transitions to the next. Natural transition is very important in garden design.

I was reminded the other day as I spoke with a client of how so many people actually overlook green as actually being a color design element in garden and landscape design.

As we talked about her project I pointed out that we now had four colors in her plan and that we needed to repeat them throughout the design to create some balance. Remember, balance and repetition are principles of landscaping. She questionably stated that we only had three colors in her design.

At first I was puzzled but soon understood what she meant. Green isn’t really a color. It’s just the medium that holds the real colored parts in place.

Now if we looked at green as just being a neutral medium, I might be able to go along with this. However, as a designer, I see it in a much different way. There are many shades of green that hold many different textures that can create such wonderful contrasts that can de designed with.

Some of the most vibrant and lush gardens I’ve ever seen have simply displayed this one color in many variations. Light greens, dark greens, yellow greens, etc. And I haven’t even touched on texture here. Even the same shade of green in different textures creates a wonderful contrast for designing purposes.

Try and picture the lushness and beauty of a dark jungle. Their beauty and contrast are generally created by the variations of shade and texture and not bright colors. Shady gardens that resemble a deep forest or jungle are absolutely beautiful in their own right.

Keep this in mind when planning your next garden. Just as one example, a mixture of Hostas, Ferns, and Ornamental Grasses can create a very memorable and eye catching display using the color green.

Yes… green is a color.

Whether it’s the sudden appearance of quality copper weathervanes or even a recent resurgence in classic automobiles, there seems to be two conflicting trends in this high-tech world of ours: Either people completely endorse all things technological and turn their homes into living computers—or, they tend to cling harder than ever to the traditions of the past.

The weather vane has been part of human culture dating all the way back to the time of the Romans. The sudden reemergence of the weathervane in popular culture and appearance on the rooftops of homes in recent years means that it seems to be making a comeback. This newfound popularity is occurring despite the fact that we can learn more about the weather from a 30-second newsbyte than we could from staring at a wind vane all day! So what explains this newfound love affair with quality copper weathervanes and other finials?

The true collectible copper weathervanes were typically made in between the end of the Civil War and the beginning of WWII. Although not exactly hand-crafted like the ones prior to the Civil War, this period of weathervane construction saw the widespread use of molds create the various shapes typical to the craft, including: Horses, Roosters, Fish, Deer, and especially Horses. The halves of the molds were often joined with solder or some form of welding and this technique proved very effective because many of the antique copper weathervanes available today are still in good shape and actually work.

Of course, one concern with anything made out of copper, including weathervanes, is the process which creates patina. It generally takes about 5 years for copper weathervanes to develop that green patina they are so famous for. However, many manufactures of contemporary weather vanes made from copper have developed a process that creates the patina through a chemical reaction so that the buyer can have what appears to be a classic vane sitting atop their rooftop—but without the big expense that comes from buying an authentic copper weathervane from generations past.

Truthfully, none of us truly need any kind of weather vane or finial perched atop our homes these days. Even people who make their living in agriculture and who thus depend upon the weather can easily log on to a website or flip on the television to find out the latest satellite images of what is happening in their area. No, there is something else driving the recent rise in popularity of premium contemporary weathervanes and it is a basic yearning for simpler times. While it may not eliminate any of the modern pressures, driving home to a place with a quality copper weathervane perched atop the roof can alleviate the stresses for just a minute and remind us of what truly matters when we step through that front door.

Let me guess you just purchased your new home. The inside is great cozy and clean. But the homebuilder left the backyard for you to finish. You give little thought on the initial days after moving in. But then you notice the dirt and sand tracking on your new carpet and floors. So you decide to take immediate action. You can hire a local landscaper or you can do the work yourself.

Either way here is the instructions on how to care for your newly sodded yard.

As soon as sod is installed:
1. New sod should be watered twice per day for the first couple of weeks. The sod should be kept moist. (Not drowned, not mushy)

2. All traffic on sod should be kept to a minimum as it separates the grass seams and disconnects the root attachment.

First Mowing:

1. The first mowing can usually occur about three weeks after installation or when

sod reaches a height of 3” – 31/2” tall.

2. Adjust mower height to approximately 2,5” and do not scalp grass to short.

3. Do not cut the sod if the grass is to wet. This cause matting and slows the

spreading of root system.

4. Repeat mowing once a week during the growing season. Do not remove more

1/3 of the grass blade per mowing.

Weeding and Fertilization

1. After the first mowing, feed your new sod with a high nitrogen fertilizer. The following spring, a pre-emergent should be used in early spring to keep the weeds down to a minimum.

2. About every 6 to 8 weeks from April through October, fertilize your lawn with a well balanced (13-13-13) fertilizer at the recommended rate. The two direction is best to use to assure proper coverage and overlap. Light applications are generally better than heavy applications. More is not always better.

3. If you have crabgrass or a barnyard grass in your yard. Weed and feed will make it grow. My suggestion to kill these is get some round up herbicide and put on rag and rub on crabgrass leaf.

Other suggestions:

1. Once your lawn is established try to water longer to promote a deeper root growth and a healthier grass. But if water is running over curb you are just wasting water.

2. Watering yard during winter is important, especially during the initial planting stage. Also in the south where we don’t winterize our irrigation systems. I recommend running system weekly for a short period of time just to keep system clean and operational.

3. Also you want to be careful watering in the afternoon or night. Sod stay moist with encourages fungus to invade your yard.

4. Aeration to your established lawn helps facilitate air movement as well as fertilizer and water intake. This can be done a couple times a year.

What is Spray Foam Insulation?:

It’s a form of insulation, which is sprayed over an area you wish to insulate, instead of the conventional way of placing some sort of insulation in the wall cavity. When it is sprayed it rapidly expands and fills in every single void it can, creating an almost perfectly sealed space.

What are the advantages of using Spray Foam Insulation?:

By expanding and filling ever crack and void it provides complete sealing, preventing air from leaking, which is still in effect with other insulations. It can be placed in any area without having to remove existing tubing, electrical wires or pipes of any kind. It is water repellent and allows moisture to leave from the walls. Mold cannot grow on it. It also prevents the development of mold, which is due to humid air. It is an effective way of reducing outside noises. Also, Spray Foam Insulation has a low flammability. It can be used as an effective way of insulating your boat. It can be used in small areas.

How well does it work?:

Something of the sort like icynene has an R-value of 3.6, Polyisocyanurate has an R-value of 5.6 although it can range up to 7, while Polyurethane ranges from 5.8-6.8. The R-value is defined as “a measure of a substance’s insulating value or resistance to heat flow. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating ability.” (Jacksonemc EMC). Although the R-value may be lower then other materials, you must remember that it is a sealant that prevents the escape of air, which is a huge contributor to heat loss.

What is the cost and savings?:

The initial cost of using spray foam insulation is around 3 times more then conventional insulation, however the savings offset the costs by far. It can cost 1.25- 2.25$ per Sqft. The savings repay the initial costs by around 3-5 years, depending on the amount of insulation used. It pays off, and you will notice a difference when the insulation is put it. You will feel warmer, you will save money, you will help save the environment and you will admire yourself for making the right decision.

Is it environmentally friendly?:

Many organizations have rated spray foam insulation as one of the greenest methods of insulation with the most attention going to icynene. Most spray foam insulations do not contain HCFC’s, CFC’s or formaldehyde. They are relatively safe for individuals with respiratory problems such as asthma. So the answer to the question is yes it is environmentally friendly.